Outfits by Princess Diana’s favourite fashion designer are coming to the Museum of Edinburgh
The Curatorial & Engagement Team at Museums & Galleries Edinburgh are working on a new display at the Museum of Edinburgh, which will feature five outfits by fashion designer Victor Edelstein. The outfits have recently been donated to the collection by Mrs Susan Miller in memory of her daughter Anna Miller, who was an assistant and muse to Edelstein.
Victor Edelstein was one of the leading fashion designers of the 1980s and created many outfits for Princess Diana, including the dress she wore to dance with John Travolta at the White House.
Fucshia pink for a dazzling evening
One of the star pieces on display in The Craft of Couture: Victor Edelstein designs for Anna Miller is a fuchsia pink evening gown with a plunging neckline, created from heavy silk satin. A velvet cocktail dress has buttons that sparkle under the lights, while a series of suits show Edelstein’s exceptional attention to detail and his innate understanding of how to make a woman look her best.
History Curator Vicky Garrington has been working with Collections Care Officer Jenny Pape to assess each garment in the collection and prepare it for display. Vicky says it’s a privilege to see Edelstein’s work up close:
Victor Edelstein was a couturier, creating bespoke garments for individual clients. This is work from the very pinnacle of the fashion world. The fabrics used are so luxurious – silk satins and velvets, tweeds and cut glass – and the attention to detail is un-matched. We can see as we start mounting each piece how its design it intended to make the wearer look their absolute best.
For museum display, each garment is carefully fitted to a mannequin. Slender mannequins are required for the Edelstein pieces, with certain features accentuated by adding padding to the figure. This supports the garments properly and gives a good indication of how they would have looked when worn.
1980s, but not as we know it
The pieces in the display definitely have a 1980s flavour – the use of hot fuchsia pink contrasted with black; a velvet dress with a cummerbund waistband – but they are not in line with the 1980s cliché of massive shoulder pads, asymmetry and lots of sparkle. Instead, they exude a restrained elegance. Vicky says:
I think visitors are going to be surprised at how wearable these 1980s creations are. The dresses especially wouldn’t look out of place at a party today. Meanwhile, the sand-coloured suit screams ‘quiet luxury’ – a very on-trend style. Each fashion decade tends to become synonymous with its extremes – the wide flares of the 70s, or the shoulder pads of the 80s – but the real picture is more nuanced, and the cleverest designers design with longevity in mind.
Victor Edelstein
Victor Edelstein (born 1946) created couture gowns and day outfits for Princess Diana as well as many other Royal and Society figures. This work earned him a reputation as ‘The Master of the English thoroughbred look’.
Edelstein was born in North London. He spent his early career working for various fashion designers and brands before establishing his own label in 1978. After four years, Edelstein decided to focus solely on haute couture as opposed to ready-to-wear fashion. He also designed for the theatre and ballet.
Victor Edelstein closed his fashion house in 1993 and now works as an artist.
Anna Miller
Anna Miller was born in Edinburgh. After working for the department store Jenners, she relocated to London to work for Vogue. She met Victor Edelstein and became his assistant and muse. She later returned to Edinburgh and worked as an artist.
The term ‘muse’ comes from the ancient Greek inspirational goddesses of literature, art and science. In more recent times, a muse is thought of as a source of artistic inspiration. In fashion circles, you might think of Madonna as the muse of Jean Paul Gaultier, or Harry Styles as the muse of Alessandro Michele of Gucci. Anna Miller assisted Victor Edelstein with his couture business, but she also served as inspiration for his designs. Looking at the wonderful creations he designed for her, she was definitely a worthy muse.
The Craft of Couture: Victor Edelstein designs for Anna Miller
28/11/2024 – 01/06/2024
See the exhibition page for more information
Please note that this is a small display. Community workshops and events will be held during the display’s run – please keep an eye on the website for details.